Hailey Bennett
Magnets are an invaluable tool for hobbyists and gamers working with Warhammer 40,000 (40k) models, offering versatility, customization, and ease of assembly. By incorporating magnets into your models, you can achieve interchangeable weapons, modular units, and dynamic poses, enhancing both the visual appeal and tactical flexibility of your miniatures. This technique involves embedding small magnets into key areas of the model, such as weapon mounts, limbs, or vehicle components, allowing for effortless swapping and reconfiguration. Whether you're optimizing your army for different game scenarios or simply aiming for a more polished and adaptable collection, mastering the use of magnets in 40k models is a skill that can elevate your hobby experience to new heights.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Enhance modularity and customization of Warhammer 40k miniatures |
| Materials Needed | Magnets (neodymium, typically 1/8" or 3mm diameter), super glue, magnetizer tool, drill (pin vise recommended) |
| Common Magnet Sizes | 1/8" (3mm) diameter x 1/16" (1.5mm) thick, 1/16" (1.5mm) diameter x 1/16" (1.5mm) thick |
| Polarity Arrangement | North-South alignment for secure connections |
| Drill Bit Size | Slightly smaller than magnet diameter (e.g., 1/16" bit for 1/8" magnets) |
| Applications | Weapon swaps, vehicle hatches, arm/head poses, scenic bases |
| Advantages | Easy model customization, dynamic posing, storage efficiency |
| Disadvantages | Increased assembly time, risk of misalignment, added cost |
| Popular Techniques | Pin-and-magnet method, surface-mount magnets, hidden magnet placement |
| Recommended Glue | Gel-based super glue (e.g., Loctite Gel Control) for precision |
| Safety Tips | Wear safety goggles, keep magnets away from electronics, handle small magnets carefully |
| Cost (Approx.) | $10–$20 for a pack of 100+ magnets, $5–$15 for magnetizer tool |
| Skill Level | Intermediate (requires precision drilling and gluing) |
| Time Investment | 10–30 minutes per magnet pair, depending on model complexity |
| Community Resources | Warhammer forums, YouTube tutorials, magnet size calculators |
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What You'll Learn
- Magnetizing Weapons: Attach magnets to arms, weapons for easy swapping between different loadouts
- Magnetizing Vehicle Components: Add magnets to turrets, sponsons for customizable vehicle configurations
- Magnetizing Poses: Magnetize limbs, heads to create dynamic, unique poses for characters
- Magnetizing Bases: Use magnets for secure, removable models on scenic bases
- Magnetizing Wings/Backpacks: Enable detachable wings or backpacks for versatile model customization
Magnetizing Weapons: Attach magnets to arms, weapons for easy swapping between different loadouts
Magnetizing weapons on 40k models isn't just a hobbyist fad—it’s a game-changer for versatility. By embedding small magnets into weapon arms and corresponding model hands, you can swap loadouts effortlessly, adapting your army to different tactics without committing to a single configuration. This method is particularly useful for units like Space Marines, where a single squad might need to switch between flamers, bolters, and special weapons depending on the mission. The key lies in precision: use 1.5mm or 2mm rare-earth magnets (neodymium) for a strong hold without bulk, ensuring weapons stay securely attached during gameplay.
To begin magnetizing, start by drilling a small hole in the weapon arm and the corresponding hand, ensuring the holes align when the arm is in position. Insert a magnet into each hole using a dab of superglue, making sure the polarity allows the weapon to attach naturally. For consistency, mark the polarity on each magnet with a fine-tipped permanent marker. Pro tip: use a magnetizer tool to avoid gluing your fingers together and to ensure the magnets face the correct direction. Once the magnets are set, test the fit by attaching and detaching the weapon several times to ensure a snug but not overly tight connection.
One common mistake is underestimating the strength of the magnet needed. Weak magnets can cause weapons to fall off during handling, while overly strong magnets can make swapping difficult. Aim for a balance—2mm magnets are ideal for most weapons, but smaller 1.5mm magnets work well for lighter items like pistols or chainswords. Another caution: avoid drilling too close to the surface of the model, as this can weaken the plastic and lead to breakage. Always drill slightly deeper than the magnet’s height to ensure it sits flush.
The payoff for this effort is immense. Magnetized weapons not only enhance the tactical flexibility of your army but also preserve the resale value of your models, as buyers often prefer customizable units. Additionally, magnetization allows you to display your models dynamically, showcasing different loadouts without needing multiple miniatures. For example, a magnetized Primaris Intercessor squad can switch between bolt rifles, auto bolt rifles, and stalker bolt rifles, giving you options without cluttering your storage with unused weapons.
In conclusion, magnetizing weapons is a skill that elevates your 40k hobby from static to dynamic. It requires patience and precision but rewards you with adaptability and longevity in your models. Whether you’re a competitive player or a casual collector, this technique ensures your army remains as versatile as the ever-shifting battlefields of the 41st millennium.
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Magnetizing Vehicle Components: Add magnets to turrets, sponsons for customizable vehicle configurations
Magnetizing vehicle components in Warhammer 40k models unlocks a level of tactical flexibility that static builds simply can’t match. By adding magnets to turrets and sponsons, you transform your vehicles into modular platforms capable of adapting to any battlefield scenario. A Leman Russ tank, for instance, can swap between a battle cannon, punisher gatling cannon, or even a vanquisher cannon without requiring multiple models or tedious re-gluing. This not only saves space and money but also keeps your army dynamic and responsive to different opponents and missions.
The process begins with careful planning. Identify the components you want to magnetize—turrets, sponsons, or even hull-mounted weapons—and determine the size and strength of magnets needed. Neodymium magnets, typically 1.5mm to 3mm in diameter, are ideal for most 40k models due to their strength and compact size. Use a pin vise to drill holes in both the vehicle and the component, ensuring they align perfectly when assembled. A tip: dry-fit the pieces before gluing magnets to avoid misalignment, which can ruin the polarity and functionality.
One common challenge is maintaining the aesthetic integrity of the model while magnetizing. To address this, recess magnets slightly below the surface and fill gaps with green stuff or liquid green stuff for a seamless finish. Paint the magnets before installation to avoid chipping the model’s paint job later. For sponsons, consider using a single magnet on the vehicle’s side and a corresponding magnet on the sponson itself, ensuring a snug fit without visible gaps. This approach preserves the model’s original look while adding functionality.
The strategic benefits of magnetized vehicles are undeniable. In a game where adaptability is key, being able to switch weapons mid-campaign or between matches can give you a significant edge. Imagine fielding a Land Raider Crusader one turn and a Land Raider Redeemer the next, all from the same model. This level of customization not only enhances gameplay but also encourages creative list-building and experimentation with different loadouts.
In conclusion, magnetizing vehicle components is a game-changer for Warhammer 40k enthusiasts. While it requires precision and patience, the payoff in versatility and tactical depth is well worth the effort. Whether you’re a competitive player or a hobbyist, this technique elevates your models from static displays to dynamic tools of war, ensuring your army remains as unpredictable as the battlefield itself.
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Magnetizing Poses: Magnetize limbs, heads to create dynamic, unique poses for characters
Magnetizing poses for 40k models isn’t just about functionality—it’s about storytelling. By embedding small neodymium magnets (1.5mm or 2mm diameter, N42 strength recommended) into key joints like shoulders, hips, and necks, you can transform static figures into dynamic narratives. For example, a Space Marine’s arm can be positioned mid-swing, its boltgun aimed at an unseen enemy, or a Chaos Sorcerer’s head can be twisted mid-incantation, capturing the essence of chaos. The key is to plan magnet placement during assembly, drilling holes at natural pivot points (e.g., shoulder sockets or wrist joints) to ensure seamless movement without compromising structural integrity.
The process requires precision and foresight. Begin by identifying the pose’s focal points—where movement will create the most impact. Use a pin vise to drill holes slightly larger than your magnets, ensuring a snug fit. Apply a thin layer of superglue to the magnet, insert it into the hole, and allow it to set fully before repeating on the corresponding limb or accessory. For larger models like Dreadnoughts or Knights, consider using 3mm magnets for added stability. Always test the polarity of your magnets before gluing to ensure limbs attach correctly. A misaligned magnet can ruin the pose and damage the model, so double-check alignment with a dry fit.
One of the most compelling aspects of magnetized poses is their ability to convey action and personality. A magnetized head can shift a model’s expression from stoic to frenzied, while a swappable arm can depict a character mid-charge or defending against an attack. For instance, a Primaris Lieutenant can be shown drawing a power sword or pointing toward the enemy, depending on the scenario. This versatility extends to gaming as well, allowing you to adapt models to different roles on the tabletop. A magnetized weapon arm can switch between a flamethrower for horde clearing and a plasma gun for precision strikes.
However, magnetizing poses isn’t without challenges. Overloading a model with magnets can add unnecessary weight, affecting stability. Limit magnet use to critical joints and prioritize poses that enhance the model’s silhouette. Additionally, avoid placing magnets too close to resin or fragile components, as drilling can cause breakage. For models with intricate details, consider using green stuff or putty to conceal magnet holes. While the process demands patience, the payoff is immense—a single model can now tell multiple stories, each as vivid as the last.
In conclusion, magnetizing poses is an art that blends technical skill with creative vision. It elevates 40k models from static displays to dynamic characters, capable of embodying the drama and intensity of the Warhammer universe. With careful planning, the right tools, and a bit of practice, you can breathe life into your miniatures, ensuring each one stands as a testament to your craftsmanship and storytelling prowess. Whether for display or gaming, magnetized poses offer endless possibilities, proving that even the smallest details can make the biggest impact.
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Magnetizing Bases: Use magnets for secure, removable models on scenic bases
Magnetizing bases for 40k models isn’t just a functional upgrade—it’s a game-changer for both display and playability. Scenic bases, while visually stunning, often make models cumbersome to transport or store. By embedding magnets into the base and model, you create a secure yet removable connection that preserves the integrity of your intricate terrain features. This method ensures your models remain stable during gameplay while allowing easy detachment for storage or reconfiguration.
To begin, select neodymium magnets with a diameter of 3mm or less and a thickness of 1mm for most infantry models. Larger models may require 5mm diameters or multiple magnets for added stability. Drill a shallow hole in the model’s foot or base using a pin vise, ensuring it aligns with a corresponding hole in the scenic base. Insert the magnet into the hole, securing it with a small amount of superglue. Repeat the process for the scenic base, ensuring polarity is consistent across all models for seamless attachment.
One common pitfall is misalignment, which can cause models to wobble or detach unintentionally. To avoid this, use a magnet with a flat surface and ensure the holes are drilled straight. Test the polarity before gluing by placing the model on the base temporarily. If the connection feels weak, consider adding a second magnet or using a stronger grade, such as N52. For added durability, fill any gaps around the magnet with green stuff or modeling putty, then paint over it to maintain the base’s aesthetic.
The benefits of magnetized bases extend beyond practicality. They allow you to swap models between different scenic bases for thematic variety or tournament play. For example, a model could transition from a swamp base to a ruined cityscape without compromising stability. This flexibility is particularly useful for players who participate in narrative campaigns or themed events. Additionally, magnetized bases make it easier to repair or repaint models without damaging the terrain features.
In conclusion, magnetizing bases is a straightforward yet impactful technique that enhances both the functionality and versatility of your 40k models. With minimal investment in tools and materials, you can achieve a professional result that elevates your hobby experience. Whether you’re a competitive player or a display enthusiast, this method ensures your models remain as dynamic as the battles they fight.
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Magnetizing Wings/Backpacks: Enable detachable wings or backpacks for versatile model customization
Magnetizing wings or backpacks on 40k models isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about functionality and versatility. Detachable components allow you to swap between loadouts, pose models dynamically, or even transport them safely. For instance, a Primaris Captain with a magnetized jump pack can switch to a grav-chute or storm shield without needing multiple models. This approach maximizes the utility of your miniatures while keeping them display-ready.
To begin, select rare-earth magnets (neodymium) in sizes like 1.5mm or 2mm diameter, ensuring they’re small enough to fit discreetly. Drill holes in the model’s back and the component (wing or backpack) using a pin vise, then insert magnets with polarities reversed for a secure fit. Apply a thin layer of superglue to hold the magnets in place, but avoid excess to prevent clogging the connection. For larger wings, consider using two magnets per side for stability.
One common pitfall is misalignment, which can make components wobble or sit unevenly. To avoid this, dry-fit the magnets before gluing, marking their positions with a pencil or paint. If the component is heavy, reinforce the joint with a small metal rod or plasticard for added strength. For models with intricate details, like Dark Angels wings, plan magnet placement early to preserve the sculpt’s integrity.
The payoff is immense. Magnetized wings or backpacks let you adapt models to different army compositions or narrative scenarios. A Blood Angels Sanguinary Guard can swap between inferno pistols and wings mid-game, or a Necron Overlord can alternate between a cloak and a jetpack. This modularity not only enhances gameplay but also keeps your collection future-proof as new rules or expansions emerge.
Finally, consider the long-term benefits. Magnetized models are easier to store and transport, reducing breakage during travel. They also retain resale value, as buyers appreciate the customization options. While the initial setup requires precision and patience, the flexibility it provides makes it a worthwhile investment for any 40k enthusiast.
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Frequently asked questions
Use small, strong magnets (1-2mm in diameter) and drill holes in the model’s joints. Insert magnets with opposite polarities in corresponding parts, ensuring a snug fit. Test the connection before gluing to ensure proper alignment.
Neodymium magnets (rare earth magnets) are ideal due to their strength and small size. Choose magnets with a diameter of 1-3mm and a thickness of 1mm for most applications.
Use a pin vice with a small drill bit (0.8-1.5mm) and apply gentle, consistent pressure. Secure the model in a vice or clamp to prevent slipping, and drill slowly to avoid cracking the material.
Yes, but ensure the magnets are strong enough for the weight of the accessory. Place magnets close to the attachment point and test the connection. Use larger magnets for heavier components to maintain stability.
